Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the most regal Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines in the world. With 100 different appellations, myriad individual vineyards and more than 3,000 individual producers, around 15 million cases are produced there annually from 26,500ha of vines. Burgundy has five sub-regions: Chablis in the Yonne department; the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in the Côte d'Or; and the Chalonnais and Mâconnais in the Saone-et-Loire.
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2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd Pouilly-Fuissé by Olivier Merlin, BurgundyMâconnais maestro Olivier Merlin fermented and aged this rich, toasty, citrus-edged E1 exclusive in oak.Jane MacQuitty, White Wine I’ve Fallen in Love With, The Times (October 2023)The Merlin family have made our Pouilly-Fuissé from vines in the villages of Vergisson, Chaintré and Fuissé. Fermented and aged entirely in oak, it is complex and layered. The nose is restrained and floral; the palate is rounded, with generous citrus and melon fruit. The finish is crisp and mineral, with a waft of toasty oak. Enjoy this with seafood and hard cheese.Drink now to 2026Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (November 2022)2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd Pouilly-Fuissé by Olivier Merlin, Burgundy2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd Pouilly-Fuissé by Olivier Merlin, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $45.00Was $50.00
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2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Benjamin Leroux, BurgundyThis is deliciously moreish, with sweet strawberry fruit and cranberry bite for lift. The final blend included some wine aged in large foudres (three out of the thirteen barrels made), which adds a heartier, richer texture and rounds out the wine. While this is simple, it is far from one-dimensional. The wine comes from vines in Les Conardises and the village section of Les Fourneaux vineyards. This is very appealing and at its peak now.
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd (January 2024)2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Benjamin Leroux, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $75.00 -
2018 Pouilly-Fuissé, Clos des Quarts, Château des Quarts, BurgundyFrom the very first nose, this wine is utterly charming, with exuberant fruit and an undercurrent of chalky minerals. The palate is at once creamy and stony, with real finesse and elegance courtesy of a saline, citrus acidity. What’s most impressive, however, is the level of detail, which is more than a match for many a grander name in the Côte de Beaune.
Drink 2021-2028. -
2014 Coteaux Bourguignons, Blanc, Les Glapignys, Domaine Guyon, Burgundy
The excellent Domaine Guyon in Vosne Romanée has been below most people’s radar Eperhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends as much of his time as possible out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. The wines are extraordinarily good, yet are priced very sensibly indeed, a winning combination.This range of wines is hugely impressive, from the simple Bourgogne Rouge up to the Grand Crus. Finding high quality Vosne Romanée at this pricing level is a rare thing indeed.
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2020 Pouilly-Fuissé, Vieilles Vignes, Olivier Merlin, BurgundyFrom vines around 80 years old, mostly from the village of Chaintré, in fact not far from the Premier Cru Chevrières. None was made in 2021, but there is lots going on this year, with resonant and imposing notes of quince, peach and white hawthorn flower. The length of finish is equally impressive.
Drink 2025 - 2035 -
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Camille GiroudThis cuvée is from the usual sources in Volnay and Pommard, old vines in Mercurey and a bit more from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune to replace the Givry. Made without whole bunches, the wine has an appealing purity and lightness of touch. The Hautes-Côtes component gives a chalky lift; easy, bright cherry flavours round out the finish.
Drink 2021 - 20272019 Bourgogne Rouge, Camille Giroud2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Camille GiroudBottle Price 75 cl $49.00 -
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy
Rossignol-Trapet's biodynamic 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin is drinking beautifully. This refreshing burgundian Pinot Noir delivers a charming bouquet of red cherry, crushed strawberry, forest floor and rose petals. The sweet red fruit, keen thread of acidity and chalky tannins make it the ideal match for goose or duck.
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2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Camille Giroud
These are old vines of Aligoté Doré near Pernand-Vergelesses. The Doré is the oldest and best clone of the variety; Jasper Morris MW states in Inside Burgundy that old Aligoté from around Pernand is supposed to resemble Corton-Charlemagne with time. Carel raises this wine in large barrels (460-600 litres). It is completely delicious, both creamy and apple-tart.
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Camille Giroud2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Camille GiroudBottle Price 75 cl $40.00 -
2016 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot, BurgundyThe 2016 Vosne-Romanée Village comes from three vineyards covering 1.5 hectares and sees one-third new oak. It has a fragrant bouquet with ebullient strawberry and raspberry fruit entwined with cold stone aromas and discrete sous-bois aromas. The palate has a little more substance than its fellow village crus even if it does not quite deliver the same finesse as the Morey-Saint-Denis or the Gevrey-Chambertin. Still, I appreciate the deft spicy note that sustains the finish.
- Wine Advocate 89-91/100 -
2020 Vosne-Romanée, Les Hauts Beaumonts, Pierre Girardin, BurgundyPierre Girardin is known for his meticulous approach to winemaking. He practices sustainable viticulture, taking great care of his vineyards and working with low yields to ensure the concentration and quality of the grapes. In the cellar, he employs traditional winemaking techniques focusing on minimal intervention to allow the expression of the terroir.
The wines of Pierre Girardin are often described as elegant, precise, and expressive, showcasing the distinct characteristics of each vineyard: the white wines balance fruit flavors, minerality, and a beautiful texture. The red wines, primarily made from Pinot Noir, exhibit complexity, finesse, and a sense of place. -
2017 Nuits-St Georges, Les Pruliers, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot, Burgundy
This is one of the firmer and denser wines in the range, influenced more by the clay, which is more evident here than in the neighbouring Roncière wines. A compact and positive wine that will require a little more patience. Drink 2023-2029.
Jean Grivot, whose name continues to appear on the labels, took over from his father Gaston in 1955 and handed the estate on to his son Étienne in the early 1980s. Étienne, married to Marielle Bize from Savigny, has been through a number of incarnations as winemaker here. When he took over, his father’s style was for gentle, graceful wines which perhaps were a little weak in the lesser vintages. Since then Étienne has found his own voice and made a range of increasingly fine wines. The drive to reduce yields and fine-tune his work in the vineyards and cellar since the mid-2000s continues to enhance quality. The succession to the next generation is now well underway, with Mathilde and Hubert increasingly influential, under their father’s experienced and wise guidance.
Here the decision was to wait for a bit of rain, to get the skins and berries fully ripe. The rain did the trick and the resulting wines are among the best of the Côte this year. Adjectives tumbled from Étienne during the tasting: seductive and precise, glamorous, graphite and saline, luminous and suave. We both agreed we rather liked “resonant E Volumes are up 50 percent but Étienne warned us that the run of short vintages has depleted their reserves, and as such allocations this year will not move up in line. -
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
The Gevrey-Chambertin is becoming somewhat totemic for Ben, produced mostly in a beautiful 35hl foudre which Ben feels gives the wine more elegance, finesse and precision than traditional 228-litre barrels. With gorgeous, sweet red cherry fruit, a charming softness and supple tannins, it is hard to disagree with his assessment.
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy2016 Gevrey-Chambertin, Benjamin Leroux, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $149.00 -
2005 Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie, BurgundySylvie Poillot, General Manager, farms the estate’s 42 hectares biodynamically. “We do this to preserve the fertility of soils and to have a perfect balance between the soil and the plant’s health, Eshe explains. It’s not just the soil health that’s changed: two decades from their conversion to biodynamics, the wines are evolving too: “The wines are more aromatic and more expressive year after year, Eshe says.
One of the most backward wines in the cellar is pale lemon with some green tints. A fine core of flesh and fruit is evident alongside some other fermentation flavours, with very appley notes behind. The density, integrity, and wealth of flavour are set to be an exceptional wine. -
1998 Puligny Montrachet F Gaunoux
From soil full of clay, limestone and stone. This Puligny Montrachet is very floral and unapologetically fruity, with aromas of citrus fruits and more exotic fruits like papaya and mango, combined with some ripe minerality and aromas of roasted nuts. In the mouth the acidity is light and bright, and a slightly sweet side from the ripe vintage is evident. Very well balanced and absolutely delicious white Burgundy.
1998 Puligny Montrachet F Gaunoux1998 Puligny Montrachet F GaunouxBottle Price 75 cl $159.00 -
1995 Beaune, Le Clos des Mouches, 1er Cru, Domaine François Gaunoux,Burgundy
This is a classic. Vinous, round and fleshy Pinot Noir. Tons of fruit. Enjoy now and into the next century. The walled vineyard is filled with history, generally considered the pinnacle of 1er Crus in Beaune.
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2010 Meursault, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy
The 2010 Meursault emerges from the glass with notable elegance and class. This is a slightly more restrained, nervous style than fans of Comtes Lafon have become used to over the years. The 2010 is made from parcels in Petit Montagne, Charmes and Narvaux that belong to Dominique Lafon and that were once used in the Comtes Lafon Meursault
Antonio Galloni - eRobertParker.com #202 - Aug 20122010 Meursault, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy2010 Meursault, Dominique Lafon, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $222.00 -
2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBeautiful white burgundy from the wine whizz kid Benjamin Leroux, with lots of fine, smoky-toasty, hazelnut style.
Jane MacQuitty, The Times (May 2021)
A blend of wines from the Hautes-Cotes de Beaune and outlying vineyards around Meursault put together with great skill by this new-generation negociant. Neat, fresh and pure. Creamy texture with a slice of lemon. Just the ticket. The only disadvantage of the wine is that you know it would have cost half as much quite recently. It's also at its peak at the moment. Not for the cellar.
Jancis Robinson MW, ft.com (March 2021)
As always, this is a very superior generic white Burgundy, based on vineyards in the Hautes Côtes (where the quality is superb in 2018) and Côte d’Or vineyards around Meursault. The beautiful ripeness of the Hautes Côtes gives a lemon and stone-fruit character, and good acidity; while the Meursault component is lush and joyous.
Drink now to 2023.2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin Leroux2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $55.00 -
2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Antoine JobardAs usual, this comprises fruit from the lieux-dits L’Ormeau, Sous la Velle, La Monatine, Les Herbeaux and Lameroses Ewhich all lie in the middle and to the north of the appellation. Twenty percent of the wine is in barrel. There is lots of creamy fruit, a well-textured body and an open Meursault style, finishing with satisfying tension.
Drink 2022-2028.2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Antoine Jobard2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Antoine JobardBottle Price 75 cl $61.00 -
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Le Clos du Village, Domaine Liger-BelairJust two barrels made from the 40 year old vines on limestone. Pale lemon and lime colour. The nose is on the heated side. Really energetic attack, lemon scented melons, sherbet touch to finish, quite exotic but less heated at the finish.
- Jasper Morris MW -
2020 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin LerouxBen chose not to include any Dames Huguettes (Hautes-Côtes de Nuits) this year; the grapes had become too expensive. The origin of the fruit here is all Côte de Beaune. The wine is raised two-thirds in foudres, one-third in barrel. This is an accomplished and pretty example of the vintage: juicy, perfumed and with pure red-fruit notes.Drink 2022-20282020 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin Leroux2020 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $61.00
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2016 Meursault, Les Narvaux, Dominique Lafon, BurgundyA pale lemon colour with light green tints, this cuvée displays a very backward nose with a touch of beneficial reduction. In the mouth it is very classy, building to the back, quite generous, with a lovely aftertaste. The fruit keeps on coming. Drink 2019-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
The whites were picked from 28th August with a good crop for the Bourgogne Blanc (see page XX), rather less in the other white vineyards. The reds Emore wine than in 2014 or 2016 but far from a full crop Eare superb, having been vinified with very light extraction, given the health and beauty of the raw material. While all the whites count as domaine wines, there are now two excellent cuvées of Premier Cru Beaune from purchased grapes to go alongside the domaine-owned Beaune Épenottes and the two Volnays. -
2020 Morey-St Denis, Les Monts Luisants, 1er Cru, Pierre Girardin, Burgundy"Pierre Girardin is known for his meticulous approach to winemaking. He practices sustainable viticulture, taking great care of his vineyards and working with low yields to ensure the concentration and quality of the grapes. In the cellar, he employs traditional winemaking techniques focusing on minimal intervention to allow the expression of the terroir.
The wines of Pierre Girardin are often described as elegant, precise, and expressive, showcasing the distinct characteristics of each vineyard: the white wines balance fruit flavors, minerality, and a beautiful texture. The red wines, primarily made from Pinot Noir, exhibit complexity, finesse, and a sense of place. -
2017 Morey St Denis, Les Forges du Tart, 1er Cru, Clos de Tart, Burgundy
A fresh and ripe nose features notes of both red and dark cherry that are trimmed in floral, herbal tea and wood hints. The agreeably textured and rich flavors are not super-dense though neither are they light, all wrapped in a juicy, pliant, refreshing and ever-so-mildly warm finale. This youthfully austere effort offers good quality and is a wine that should drink reasonably well young if that's your preference. - Wine Advocate
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2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Jean-Claude Ramonet
The 2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay is a medium to full-bodied, round and fleshy wine evocative of peach, fresh mint, pastry cream and vanilla pod. Open and demonstrative, it will drink well young. - Robert Parker
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Jean-Claude Ramonet2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Jean-Claude RamonetBottle Price 75 cl $184.00 -
2016 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert Lamy, BurgundyThis vineyard is on the western side of the Mont Rachet, close to Puligny-Montrachet. This has a plumper feel to the palate, with more of the mealy, oaty character of that appellation. Not to be underestimated, there is splendid intensity to match the fruit and energy of the wine. Drink 2021-2027. Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 Etoday the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third. -
2015 Le Clou 34, Domaine Naudin-Ferrand, Vin de France
Classified as Vin de France. From five parcels of old vines planted between 1902 and 1953. Fresh and mineral, pleasant fruit weight with a slight tropical edge, pure and elegant style, ripe and juicy acidity, just a hint of yeast, crème patissière, good length. Not a very typical Aligoté, but a lovely wine.
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2002 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Murgers, 1er Cru, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, BurgundyMedium depth of colour with a delicate, fragrant nose, very glossy, a delicious volume of fruit, fair depth, brisk red fruit with plenty of acidity. Fully ready but holding up nicely; no hurry.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (January 2018) -
2015 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, 1er Cru, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion, BurgundyThis site was planted in or around 1945. The Rions have used some whole bunches here to balance the softer style of the cuvée, providing more structure and minerality. The raspberry fruit fills the middle of the palate, leading to an exquisite finish.
Drink 2022-2030.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
With more than 35 vintages under his belt, Patrice Rion considers that 2015 is the finest of his career, offering elegance, acidity and persistence. They began picking on 5th September and finished before the rain which arrived the following weekend. The only sorting that needed doing was to remove any dried-out berries. The yields were acceptable, just 10 percent down in volume on the previous vintage. Unusually, Patrice and his son Maxime have used some whole bunches on certain cuvées, notably the Clos des Argillières and Clos St Marc. -
2017 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, 1er Cru, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, BurgundyThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is matured in 62% new oak and underwent a slightly later malolactic fermentation than the other cuvées. It has a very pure, detailed bouquet of precise blackberry, briar and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit, displaying more grip and backbone than the Les Suchots, and the bold finish perhaps offering less charm. It will certainly require several years in bottle.
- Vinous 93-95/100 -
2017 Pommard, Rugiens-Hauts, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux, BurgundyRugiens is arguably Pommard's greatest vineyard, of which the lower section is perhaps the finest, but Ben's plot is in the lower part of Rugiens-Hauts and thus very adjacent. This is a big, stern and meaty wine, with dense tannins, but perfume and rigour too. Very serious and age-worthy.
Drink 2025-2030.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no ''black sheep''Ein 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap -
2018 Blagny, La Pièce Sous le Bois, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux, BurgundyThis comes from the same vineyard that produces Ben’s Meursault. As with the white, Ben is building his position whenever he can. Why Blagny? In the best years it can make some of the most individual wines of Burgundy Elean, powerful, understated and intensely mineral. Warmer summers are now adding a further layer of downy comfort. From last year’s four and a bit barrels, Ben can offer 13 barrels this year.
Drink 2025 - 2032 -
2017 Volnay, Les Lurets, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon, BurgundyIn contrast to the village wine from the same parcel, this displays more complexity, with subtle spice notes joining the berry fruit and violet on the nose. The palate is dense and concentrated with some warmth and rich strawberry fruit, all the while retaining the elegance of Volnay.
Drink 2022-2029.
After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit. -
2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
For more than two decades, Thibault Liger-Belair has been following organic and biodynamic practices. He believes that winemaking starts not with the fruit, but with the soil. “We all talk about terroir, but my focus is on the soil and putting what it needs first, EThibaut explains. His wines are pure, focused and desirable.
The 2017 is a blend of Thibault’s five village Chambolle vineyards, but in 2018 he expects to make three cuvées. The vines are at least 50 years old and 40 percent whole-bunch was used. There is lots of pretty, floral fruit here and an intensely silky, seductive texture that is impossible not to love.
Drink 2020-2026.
Thibault continues to keep himself busy, having bought more vineyards in Moulinà-Vent. In the Côte d’Or he waited until 13th September to pick, feeling that the skins were not ripe until that point. He describes the vintage as transparent, where each vineyard’s identity is clearly visible, and one where those with large yields will not be able to hide. In the Beaujolais, hail was again a significant factor, reducing the average yield for those wines he made to an eye-watering 8hl/ha. The damage was so bad that it cost more to pick the grapes than he will make on the wines, but he felt a duty to harvest and vinify the fruit. With careful use of the vibrating sorting table, he was able to carefully select only the clean fruit and has made exceptional wines. -
2011 Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc, Les Planchots, Domaine Guyon, BurgundyThe Savigny Blanc Planchots Guyon is a wonderful example of aged white Burgundy, made from old vines on the sandy gravel soils of Savigny-lès-Beaune. Notes of peach, almond and hazelnut combine with a touch of acacia honey and a salty tang to deliver a wine of generosity and freshness. This would be equally at home as an aperitif with charcuterie, or as an accompaniment to the cheeseboard.
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (April 2021) -
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Grands Chaillots, Domaine Thibault Liger-BelairOne-third is from domaine fruit from Nuits with, since 2017, two hectares in Chambolle, including Bons Bâtons. There’s usually about 20% whole-bunch. The UK sample showed sweet and ripe fruit, a svelte undertone and a whiff of cinnamon. The palate was round and ample, very complete for this level. Finishing with strawberry fruit, it’s a classy, well-composed wine.
Drink 2021-2028. -
2010 Chambolle-Musigny, Dujac Fils & Père, BurgundyHere the nose offers excellent complexity on the primarily red berry fruit and soft earth aromas that introduce energetic, rich and round flavors that display moderate wood influence on the linear finish that isn't quite as complex as what the nose promises. Still, this is a lovely villages of fine balance and solid persistence.
- Burghound2010 Chambolle-Musigny, Dujac Fils & Père, Burgundy2010 Chambolle-Musigny, Dujac Fils & Père, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $404.00 -
2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin Leroux
This is now almost entirely Meursault fruit, with small contributions from the Hautes-Côtes behind Pernand-Vergelesses, and a few barrels of Chardonnay from Vosne. Fermented and raised in foudre and 600-litre barrels, this is, as ever, excellent. Mealy and citrussy on the nose, there’s crisp stone-fruit and sizzling mineral freshness on the palate. This is juicy, pure and cleansing.
Drink 2022-2027.2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin Leroux2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $61.00 -
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de MontilleWith the vineyard now well over 30 years old Esince its conversion from an orchard in 1986 Ethere’s increasing gravitas to be found in this ostensibly generic wine. An enclosed biodynamic vineyard for 15 years, the wine increasingly resembles a miniature Puligny-Montrachet, with notes of citrus and white flower, and a spicy back note.Drink 2021 - 2027
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2015 Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Beaux Bruns, 1er Cru, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, BurgundyThe 2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns has a slightly more austere, reserved bouquet compared to the Les Chatelots, but still compelling with precise, cold stone-influenced red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, sharing the same linearity and precision as the Chatelots, but with more depth and grip towards the finish. It has a disarming sense of purity, just the right tinge of salinity to beckon another sip. This is excellent.
- Wine Advocate 91-93/100 -
2015 Nuits-St Georges, Les Damodes, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie, BurgundyA fine, precise Nuits-St Georges from a hillside site, this was late to finish its malolactic fermentation, so the fruit is more backward. Bright purple, with a darkish style of fruit, it is pleasingly intense, with weight, persistence and some mineral notes. Drink 2022-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit. -
2015 Chambolle-Musigny, Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, BurgundyAs is usually the case this is both more elegant and more aromatically complex with its wonderfully broad-ranging nose of sandalwood, violet, plum, lavender, Asian-style tea and dark cherry scents. The gorgeously refined, intense and mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors are pure silk while delivering plenty of punch on the impeccably well-balanced finish. This is both classy and graceful and importantly for those who prefer their wines on the younger side, this should be reasonably approachable young meaning after 7 to 8 years. In a word, gorgeous.
Burghound 96/100 -
2018 Meursault, Limozin, Domaine François Mikulski, Burgundy
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2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre Girardin, Burgundy
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1997 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, BurgundyConcentrated layers of black fruits are intermingled with red berries, stones and Asian spices in its character, as well as in its 30+ second finish.
- The Wine Advocate -
2012 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy
There is enough reduction to notice though not so much as to completely dominate the floral-suffused nose. This also possesses relatively fine-grained tannins though there is notably more size, weight and power as well as a bit more complexity to the mineral-driven and impeccably well-balanced finish that is both explosive and palate staining. This is most impressive as it manages to deliver stunning intensity and depth of material without any undue heaviness. Note however that this is one very structured wine that will require a lengthy stay in a cool cellar to arrive at its full peak.
Allen Meadows - burghound.com - Jan 20152012 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy2012 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $1,918.00 -
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Combottes, 1er Cru, Domaine Dujac, BurgundyThe 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er Cru has quite a stemmy bouquet beneath an attractive carapace of black and red fruit. It is certainly well defined, charming and full of character. The palate is detailed and structured, yet endowed with thrilling focus. There is still a little new oak to be assimilated, but the tannins are very fine and there is wonderful mineral tension all the way through to the classy, ever so slightly lactic finish. This will require several years in bottle, but it will reward those with patience. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.
[Neal Martin, 13/11/2018] Vinous- 93/100 -
2016 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Burgundy
A very late malolactic fermentation Efinishing only on 17th September, allowing extended time on lees Ehas given this wine a fabulous texture. Aged in new (50 percent) and second-fill barrels, this is benchmark Vosne, with expressive aromas and a nugget of fruit at its core. Just 13 barrels were made. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Sylvain Cathiard’s grandfather, a foundling from Savoie, came to work in Vosne-Romanée, subsequently buying a few parcels of vineyards for himself. His son André Cathiard began to bottle some of the crop. In due course Sylvain began work with his father but then separated to start his own small domaine, until, on his father’s retirement in 1995, Sylvain could take back the family vineyards on a renting agreement. He has now passed the domaine on to his son Sébastien and a spacious new cellar has been constructed. There is a sense of frustration about Sébastien Cathiard this year. Of course, the loss of so much fruit sets the tone, but he also had to take emergency action to control the aggressive mildew, losing his organic status in the process. Who can blame him? Thus he states a preference for 2015, a significantly easier vintage and one for the long-term, but there are still some very notable wines here. The vintage began on 28th September and was over in three days, as the small berries on the frosted vines had caught up after the welcome September rains. He describes the year as gourmand, balanced and pure. -
2007 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils, BurgundyDeep red-ruby. Black cherry, minerals on the nose, with a suggestion of dark berry syrup. Sweet, lush and superripe but not yet as aromatic or complex in the middle palate as the Cazetiers. But this is wonderfully dense, silky and round. Finishes very long and sweet, with greater complexity emerging as the wine opens in the glass. Serafin suggests pairing this wine with beef and the Cazetiers with game, but I hope he wasn’t suggesting I do this anytime soon.
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous 94+ -
2018 Petit Chablis, Domaine Raveneau, Burgundy
There is both good freshness and reasonably good typicity to the white orchard fruit scents that are laced with soft citrus nuances. The vibrant and nicely concentrated medium weight flavors possess a caressing and succulent mouthfeel while delivering fine depth and persistence though there is a bit of perceptible backend warmth. This is a quality Petit Chablis that could be enjoyed young or cellared for a few years first.
Drink 2023+
Burghound (Nov 2020)2018 Petit Chablis, Domaine Raveneau, Burgundy2018 Petit Chablis, Domaine Raveneau, BurgundyBottle Price 150 cl $640.00 -
2012 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Patrick Javillier, Burgundy
This wine receives extra time in barrel compared to the Meursaults. A little touch of menthol, very good energy, the stony quality is certainly there. It is very backward, but will be all there. Superb persistence and a tangy mineral feel at the back, all enrobed in judicious oak.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
Though there are variations from one vineyard to another, Patrick has made about half a crop in 2012. He pressed the grapes very gently in 2012 to avoid mashing the skins and has thus managed to retain elegance in wines which are naturally full of power. His skills in the cellar have once again paid handsome dividends. A beautiful range of wines in 2012. -
2016 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Henri Rebourseau, Burgundy
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2017 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy
Firm reduction knocks down the underlying fruit at present. There is more size and power to the equally mineral-driven flavors that aren't especially dense, though neither are they dilute, while offering outstanding depth and persistence on the notably firm finale. Patience suggested.
Drink 2034+
Burghound (Apr 2019) -
2010 Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, Clos de Tart, BurgundyTasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2010 Clos de Tart Grand Cru would have been made by angels if not Sylvain Pitiot (angels that had graduated from University of Dijon with a degree in oenology). The nose is so ineffably pure that it is guaranteed to bring a tear to the eye. In a strange way it reminds me of a top Armand Rousseau with its awe-inspiring transparency. The palate is ethereal - divine balance, a gentle grip, a saline edge and poise on the finish that takes your breath away. Iron fist in a velvet glove, etc. This is surely legend in the making.
Wine Advocate 98/1002010 Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, Clos de Tart, Burgundy2010 Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, Clos de Tart, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $1,413.00 -
2017 Mazoyères-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Arnaud Mortet, Burgundy
A cool, pure and airy nose reluctantly expresses notes of red cherry and whiffs of spice, humus and freshly turned earth. There is good power to the succulent and enveloping medium weight plus flavors that offer even better minerality if, somewhat surprisingly, a bit less concentration, on the youthfully austere and mildly awkward finish as there is just enough dryness to mention. This may well come together as the supporting tannins seem ripe but that is not a certainty.
Drink 2029+
Burghound (Jan 2019)